Things happen in 3s

They say things happen in 3s!
Friday….my last day in Cambodia. And it threw everything at me to ensure I remembered it! Not 2k in to the ride the road simply disappeared in to a slippery quagmire choked with frustrated drivers and mopeds….and me. Last night there was an almighty tropical storm that flooded roads and took the power out. The fall out was that this stretch of roadworks had become utter chaos – I tried to video it (see above) in its more saner moments. Bob was slipping all over the shop. This went on for around 5ks. I was stuffed when the tarmac resumed and needed a coffee to calm the nerves! The road, whilst now tarmac at least, was utterly wrecked and unrideable in places. This by the way is the main road to the Vietnam border!

I stopped in a town to see if I could buy a stand for Bob – trying to lean the bike up against things had already broken two mirrors and was always a struggle. Found a great clamp on stand which I got fitted and bingo – Bob could be freestanding! Well….so I thought! At my next coffee stop I threw Bob on the stand and went to order my iced coffee when….crash….Bob had crashed to the floor, with the stand clamp gashing the rear hydraulic hose. I think I said ‘oh dear’ or something like that. The gash was deep but didn’t rupture the inner pipe so I think I got lucky though it’s seriously compromised. $15US stand nearly blew the trip to smithereens! In the evening I did a bodge job on it and reassembled the stand clamp but….I’m not overly trusting the stand will hold Bob fully loaded. Live and learn! But wait…..there’s more! As I approached 10k to the border I started to look for accommodation but wasn’t having much luck, so when one ‘guest house’ offered a room I took it! Mistake! What a shithole! I’ve stayed in some rough places in my time but this one capped them all! It was only after paying that I realised my error – I could have just walked away, but I simply had no idea if there were any other options. A lot of people do what’s called the ‘visa run’ where they live in Vietnam but have to leave and come back in in order to renew their visa, so accommodation is scarce. So I stayed. I got my sleeping bag and crashed on the mattress on the floor – no wifi, no flushing toilet, no sink, no hot water….just like camping I suppose! Only smellier! All part of the travelling experience.

I awoke Saturday morning ready to get the hell out of ‘hell’. It was a short 14k to the border crossing. Because Cambodia Riel is not possible to exchange out of the country I quickly dispensed with what I had left and, as luck would have it, had a last minute thought to convert some to Vietnamese Dong. I was confident that they’ll be loads of options to get Dong in Vietnam but… ‘just in case’. See why that was a stroke of luck below 😊

Anyway….got out of Cambodia very quickly then queued for ages on the Vietnam side while people queue jumped ….mind you if you don’t understand what a queue is I guess you’re not ‘jumping’ it! Then I had to take everything off Bob to have it scanned – total nonsense but you play the game! Took an hour! So, Bob all loaded up again we set off in to Vietnam 🇻🇳. I only had a short 55k to my first stop, and was pleased to have an early shower. And then the fun started. I innocently asked ‘so, where’s the nearest ATM?’. 4K away came the answer. This is a town bigger than Adelaide! ‘And there’s only one’. Sorry, what! So off I stroll to the lonely ATM….which wasn’t working! So here I am in Vietnam with about $40 in Dong and no chance of getting any more! I was very hungry, very tired and very frustrated. I walked back and by pure chance found another ATM….which refused both my cards! I returned to the hotel deflated and confused – this was a problem I hadn’t expected or experienced before. I went to bed tired and hungry ….very hungry. I needed all of the Dong I had for the room! And I really felt quite lonely …not helped by the ferocious thunder storm that pounded the place for over an hour.

One thing I did find was an excellent article from another cyclist who posed 7 questions for intending long tour riders – and boy did he hit it right on the head! If you get time, have a read. It’s funny but 110% spot on!

Planning A Really Long Bike Trip? Ask Yourself These 7 Critical Questions First