Canada

Video Update

I awoke at the Bike Station in a soaking wet tent….next to a river + cold = condensation! But I got it dry before rolling it up, stuffed some breakfast in to me and got on my way around 7, destination Canada. I felt relieved to have gotten through the US without any medical issues – it was my one overriding concern-getting sick and accruing medical debt for life! Even with insurance it would have killed me. And even tho in Canada there’s still no free health service it’s not so hideously expensive!

Anyways, the route to the border was all tarmac. I stopped in Eureka for breakfast before taking the trail route away from the main road to the border at Roosville. Before I knew it I was in the queue to leave the US. I had expected US exit processes, but there was none….straight to Canadian border checks, which were really simple. No questions about my thoughts on their prime minister!!

And so here I was…..in Canada. I had dreamed of this way back in New Mexico when it looked highly unlikely I’d even get out of that state. The USA was finally behind me, Canada awaited. The trail followed a highway for quite some time, but it was pretty easy riding in the main, bar one stinker of a climb. I had decided, as it was getting on, that I’d stay on the road to Baynes Lake, where the trail resumed. Thankfully, there was a servo about 15 miles from the border….except it’s not miles, it’s now kilometres….where I was able to get out of the midday heat and stuff myself with chocolate and sandwiches 😊….in that order!! There’s something of a heatwave here so it’s damn hot from around 12:30.

The Lake was only 15 away, which went quickly. I was anxious as I had not booked anything, and the Canadian camping and parks system was still new. As I pulled in to the Lakes area, there was a sign ‘Camping’ so I pulled up…only to find signs everywhere saying ‘No overnight camping’….do Canadians only camp during daylight 🤣. There was a drop toilet, some water spigots and power….but no where to camp! I dawdled around the area, but there were no camp options, and the local RV park sign said ‘No Vacancies’. I thought I’d try anyway, and pulled in to what seemed like a permanent RV site, with vans attached to permanent structures….no camping here! Anyway, as I was about to leave I was approached by the camp host who offered me a site by the kids playground! Sold! I grabbed a shower and pitched my tent. There was a tiny laundry and reading area where I plonked myself for the evening as it was cooler. The owner popped in later and we struck up a conversation, which resulted in her going and returning with a bag of food – chicken stir fry, drink, salad and cherries!! Another trail angel!

Onward to Fernie
After a half decent nights sleep I was awake at 5 to decamp and hit the road. It was gonna be a hot one so I wanted to get the miles in early. There were few if any options for food or water, so I was prepared for a long day, tho in distance terms it was only around 40 miles, but progressively uphill.

The initial track was great – compact gravel and occasional tarmac, before turning on to a highway for a short while to Elko. What a hideous road that was – busy, noisy, and horrible hills. I had been pre warned about how bad it was, so was pleased to get to the top of a nasty climb to find a servo just at the turning for the trail. Morning coffee and midday snacks were bought which took the pressure off a bit.

The trail towards Fernie was quite simply divine. The trail was rocky, but very rideable, and the gradient a subtle 3-5%. The mountains formed an almost 360 degree backdrop….stunning. I was happily poodling along when….as is the Divides approach….the lovely gravel turned up a steep climb on a single track pathway riddled with rocks and puddles. Hike-a-bike time again! It’s truly amazing how the trail instantly changes. I was able to ride some of it, and I mustered my inner ‘Michael’ to ride the downhills, albeit slowly (Michael is a downhill demon!). I kept checking the GPX as I was convinced that this couldn’t possibly be the trail….it was! It only lasted about 4-5k before, as quick as it changed….it changed again, to compact gravel! I stopped for lunch midway up the climb and chatted to south bounders, including two Germans (a couple) who were easily in their late 60s heading to New Mexico! Eventually the trail spits you out in Fernie, a funky ‘hip’ sorta place surrounded by mountains. I’d booked a place in a hostel which had ‘pods’ you could book – it’s a dormitory style set up but with individual pods to sleep in, enclosed, with a fan and storage space and a curtain for privacy! perfect!

I plan to stay here tomorrow and sight see for once rather than rush through these towns without seeing anything. Chris, the guy I started with all those weeks ago, is likely to be here tomorrow so it’ll be so good to catch up. Michael was also due here but it’s his 65th birthday on Monday so he’s staying in eureka an extra few days….well deserved!

I’ll update when I head north in to the mountains – there’s at least one big pass to crawl over 🤨 between here and Banff but if it’s anything like today it’ll be extremely enjoyable!