Australia

Having arrived in Sydney to my mates home in Avalon on the 24th, I promptly fell very sick – fever, cough, blinding headache….,it wasn’t covid at least, but whatever it was it totally buggered up my Christmas and New Year. I sensed my body had simply had enough -I was hurting in places I didn’t know I had!. What made it all bearable was staying with my old school friend Dave and his family. We had a wonderful time tripping down memory lane most evenings. It was so lovely to just stop, and whilst I was pretty sick, it still was such a delight to be with Dave and Sonja and their wonderful 3 young adults.

Perhaps against my better judgement I said goodbye to Dave and family on the 2nd January and headed for Wollongong. Dave drove me to the ferry at Cronulla, then once on the other side it was straight in to the National park and….climbing! Endlessly climbing! It was one hell of a shock to an already depleted body! I climbed for what seemed like forever until I came out on to a glorious headland and was greeted with the eastern seaboard rugged coastline. The route hugged the coast all the way to Wollongong, but I found it incredibly tough riding as I was either climbing or descending. I was able to camp in a warm showers hosts garden that night, which was very pleasant. On Tuesday I headed off to Shoalhaven Heads. Again, it was torturously tough riding, constantly climbing short steep climbs – this was turning in to a real battle between me and the road. I also knew I was not able to put the power down I needed -the cough was persisting and that meant constant super high heart rates….not so good! I was utterly shattered after only 70k and was glad to arrive at the Heads. I went to dip my feet in the ocean, then headed to my host, a guy called Dennis who was simply fantastic.

The next day I was empty and knew I had a big ride to Batemans Bay, but Dennis, seeing how poorly I was, and given the wet and windy weather, kindly took me and Bob to a town half way to Batemans! It left me with only 60k. But no sooner had I started riding I knew things were not right- aside from the headwind and rain and the hideous Princes Highway, my body was packing up. Every pedal stroke was painful and I had no energy at all. But with no other option I had to push on to Batemans where I knew I could rest at my cousins place. I did manage to struggle to Batemans but it was at a cost….I was completely exhausted. It felt like I’d done 160 not 60!
The real challenge now was what to do. The Princes Highway is a shite road full of holiday traffic and which was incredibly undulating, with those long sweeping uphills which cyclist hate. There was southerlies forecast (headwind) and rain for the next few days. There is no public transport and all the campgrounds were fully booked with it being holiday season. And on top of that I was physically exhausted and sick. I stayed with my cousin Thursday and tried to rest, but I sensed that riding all day in the rain on Wednesday really weakened me. I must confess to simply wanting to teleport myself to Adelaide and call it a day!! Alas, that option wasn’t immediately available so I decided to ride for one more day and if things didn’t improve I’d head back to Sydney, it being much closer than Melbourne. So on Friday I got going, in to a shite headwind but reasonably dry day. It was a carbon copy of the preceding days of cycling with stupidly tough, short, steep climbs with a short descent, (which you had to pedal in to with the head wind) then straight on to the next stinker! I managed to do 55k and got to my Warm Shower hosts Maree and Bruce who put me up in their caravan – luxury! They were delightful hosts, even taking me to the local bowls club for a Chinese! Maree was a font of knowledge about the local road network, giving wonderful info about where to go and what to see.

On Saturday I resumed my battle with the Princes Highway but thankfully was able to follow Marees directions to some side roads that took me along some glorious coastlines and meandering country lanes. In the afternoon I stopped early as I was tired and so pitched my tent on the banks of Lake Wallaga – such a achingly beautiful place.
On Sunday I had the biggest ride since leaving Asia, so I set off early along a route that, despite the continuous climbing, was stunning, with breathtaking vistas across bays, high surf and cliffs. It took me through some of the worst affected areas of the NSW bush fires, with constant reminders of the devastation. It was sobering. I stayed that night with a couple who had cycled in Mongolia and many other incredible places, and were planning their next multi month tour. Their place was in the fire zone of the last big fires here and it was terrifying to listen to what they had to experience on those darkest of days. On Monday I started the three day trek across a stretch of the Princes Highway where there are few options for food, water or camping.
It’s a 200 or so K stretch which crosses the border in to Victoria and ends in Orbost. It was hot, hilly and hard! These days are about getting from A to B – just turning the pedals and getting the Ks done. I found a free camp on the banks of a lovely river in Genoa and had a restful evening, readying myself for stage 2!

It’s been a real personal experience and challenge so far. I must confess to simply wanting to pack it in. But like so many times on the journey it’s been about adjusting to the challenge rather than being defeated by it. So I’ll push on towards Melbourne which is around 580 away….so not far 🤣.