Reflections

So how does one summarise the most incredible experience of a lifetime? It’s as impossible as the adventure itself!

I have been on the road for the best part of three years, with minor health interruptions! I’ve had the opportunity to ride Bob in 5 continents, and experience everything that is so beautiful about life on the road, as well as those moments when it was all too much.

But the Divide has crushed any of those previous highs and lows in to 3months of experiences which cannot possibly be distilled in to a meaningful conversation. I hope I have been able to convey through my updates some of those experiences as they happened, so I’m not going to reminisce or repeat them here ….those moments were best captured at the time of writing, as the passage of time fades the emotionality of those experiences too easily. And they can easily be rewritten with rose spectacles!

So I thought I’d share what the Divide has taught me through those experiences. At the start of these three years I intended to learn, to reflect, to heal….cycling was a process which enabled that to happen. The Divide was a cycling adventure, but through it all it has taught me so much.

1. ‘20 miles is NOT a uniform measurement of distance (quoting Michael!). On one day 20 miles can be done in 1.5 hours. On another day it can take all day. Learning to let go of distance, and recalibrate my thinking to ‘today I will ride for 5 hours’ was such an important learning!

2. ‘if you wanna make god laugh…tell him you have a plan’ …..replace god with Divide! The divide throws up so many challenges that planning becomes somewhat redundant after a while. ‘I’ll get there when I get there’ is certainly a healthy attitude to develop or…disappointment awaits!

3. ‘Everyone wants you to succeed’ cycling is such a competitive sport and egos can be large….speaking from my own ego! But on the Divide, there is this incredible community of riders, all humbled by the sheer challenge of what the Divide delivers every single day. There’s no room for ego or selfishness….everyone wants everyone else to succeed, to win, to beat the odds.

4. ‘Ride your own ride’ was something I heard every day. Learning to let go of comparing distance, speed, elevation, duration and know that this ride is YOUR ride, no one else’s. Yes we might be going the same way, but I’ll be doing it my way, on my terms, in my own time.

5. ‘Cry me a river’…..I don’t think I’ve cried so much in three months! The Divide can sap the life from you. It presents you with what can feel like an unending gruel of pain and hardship – and sometimes it can break you. As the saying goes…’we stumble over pebbles not mountains’. Whilst there were countless mountains to traverse, it was often the small ‘pebbles’ which tripped me up, when it all got too much. It wasn’t so much that I learnt this, but I was persistently reminded of it, so I could learn better how not try not to sweat the small stuff as much.

6. ‘This too shall pass’ there were days when it was overwhelmingly difficult, and the thought that tomorrow was gonna serve up the same menu of pain and challenge was soul destroying but…..I learnt that tomorrow is tomorrow, and to relegate it to a day of misery before it even started robbed me of the possibility that it might actually be ok! Time and again I’d go to my tent at night absolutely wrecked and dreading the next day….but that next day turned out to be simply wonderful. So I’ve learnt to try not to foreshadow what tomorrow will be like based on today’s experiences. I say ‘try’ as I recognise just how hard that is!

7. Lean on your friends; it’s been humbling to tackle the Divide with complete strangers who turned out to be not just friends, but soulmates. And you learn, ‘cos the Divide requires you to, to lean on them, search out their strengths and use them, it teaches you to work hard to help a friend who’s struggling because tomorrow…they’ll be helping you when you’re in the bin. Michael in his own quiet, reflective way, Jake through his humour and joy of life on the roads, Chris with his humble humour and sheer determination….and many others besides, MADE this trip so memorable.

8. ‘Trust yourself….you can do this’. It’s very helpful that others encourage and support you – it matters. BUT….you have to believe it in yourself. Through these three years, and especially the past three months, I’ve started to learn to trust that I can ‘get through this’. Time and again when it all seemed hopeless, something happened which turned the tables. That desert cowboy in the Augustine Plains, the trail Angels, the couple who took me in in Ennis….Trusting that something will happen which changes the situation you’re in is such an amazing lesson to learn, as well as trusting in myself that despite this dire situation I’m in….breathe, stop, empty the mind, restart. Leaning in to the mess is a great lesson.

9. ‘The world is best absorbed, not just observed’ the Divide presented countless opportunities to be disconnected from my phone, with no signal. And it was FANTASTIC! Since stopping in Banff I’ve realised just how addictive these stupid things are. I’m grateful for the Divide for providing so much time away from the screen and seeing, hearing and feeling life, not doomscrolling and ‘connecting’ with a world that’s disconnected from such beauty in nature. As Passenger sings ‘You see, all I need’s a whisper, in a world that only shouts’.

10. ‘It’s not all about the bike’ – yes, the Divide is first and foremost a bike ride, a challenging one, but still a bike ride. But the Divide is also SO much more. It’s the whole immersive experience of living in nature, and abandoning all the ‘norms’ of life: no toilets…go dig a hole. No clean clothes ….wear the same sweaty smelly ones you took off last night. Clothes are wet….get over it, put them on and let your body dry them a bit. No running water ….use a stream. No showers…..again, use a stream, or failing that, go dirty. No cafes or food outlets…use what you have, or go hungry. No phone signal….read a book! Holes in your clothes….mend it or live with it. Bike broken…..fix it, or make it work somehow. Stuck…..work through it until you’re unstuck. No Google out here to look something up! So I’ve learnt that even if you’re the best bike rider on the trail, you’ve signed up for everything else too, not just the ride….and you need mental fortitude and an ability to live simply, humbly, survive on fresh air and luck….cos if you can’t, then the Divide will chew you up and spit you out!

And finally I want to say a HUGE thank you to a few people:

To Jill, who in the full knowledge that I am indeed a ‘pothole on the information technology highway’ continued throughout the three years to upload my ramblings to my blog. Thank you so so much Jill….aside from the opportunity to record things in the moment, it provided me with a lifeline of support throughout.

To all my family and dear friends in Ireland and Australia, and other places around the world, who have consistently supported me and posted words of encouragement- I know I rarely responded, often due to lack of connection …..but I know you posted to support, not to have a conversation 😊.

A special shout out to my Lee Roadies cycling family in Cork, who have been so supportive through this trip – thank you one and all! And to Mick my Doc who pulled me through a few tough moments.

And to Alison, my late father’s partner of 30 years, and her family. We had to say goodbye to Dad in these 3 years of travelling, but through it all Alison has supported my madcap travels and been that vital link to my father. Thank you.

To Charlie, Stephen and Niamh….thank you for being in my life and unwaveringly supporting me in your own ways. Love you. And to Inge for always being there in support and understanding, as well as connecting me with Niamh whenever it was possible – thank you.

And whilst I may risk being carted off in a straight jacket….a thank you to Bob!! Yes, yes I know, it’s just an inanimate object but….through five continents he has been the one consistent. I have thrown Bob in to the most testing environments any bike can handle, and he’s never failed. I feel I owe Bob an apology for throwing him on the Divide as truly, Bob is not a mountain bike, and the Divide is brutal on any bike, let alone a non mountain bike! But like a good friend, it’s like he went ‘ok, let’s beat this bastard in to submission….lets go’! And at the end of the trail, he was still going…battered, bruised, squeaking and grinding…..but still moving forward 🙏🏻

Signing off. Tony 😊

Video Update – Final Miles…

Well as many of you know, my final days ride in to Banff was washed out, and so I was determined to finish off the Divide as I had intended….on the Divide. It was a matter of finding the right time when it wasn’t raining!

Since I arrived in Banff it’s been a whirlwind of sightseeing, road trips, camping, chilling and spending quality time with Charlie and Stephen. I’d arrived on the Thursday, and on the Friday I saw Michael roll in to town – chapeau mate. I’d also met up with Chris the Forgetful (who lived up to his name by forgetting a coat!) and on the Saturday Charlie took us three to the mountains around Banff. Both lads were heading off that day, so it was our last chance to coffee and reminisce!

Since then I have been treated to the most amazing few days, spoilt only by getting a nasty cough and cold….fairly predictable I guess once you stop and slow down. Despite that it’s been a blast, especially camping out on First Nations land and getting to know a bit about Canadian Aboriginal history and culture. We’ve done mountains, rivers, glaciers, trails and ravines. It’s been stunningly beautiful and a joy to just be with my girl and her partner.

Charlie had identified Friday as the best option to ride the final 55 miles of trail – she was able to drop me back at the trail head, and she was then able to go off on a mountain hike. And she got the day spot on ….glorious sunshine greeted us. After loading up Bob one last time, I hit the trail which was a wide gravel road which was washboarded, rutted and unbelievably dusty. But the scenery was truly magical with 360 degree mountains and lakes. The riding was tough as the bike was getting thrown around, but I was keen to just roll with it and enjoy this final rodeo! I stopped at a number of camp/picnic areas scattered along the route, and enjoyed just ‘being’ in the moment, something the Divide pleads for you to be. I stopped at Spray Lakes when the trail turned in to single track. It was divine. No cars, no dust, just raw mountain countryside and forest …..which promptly reminded me this was bear country. And sure enough, a rather large black bear was moving across the path to the other side, completely disinterested in me….i was both in awe and scared! But he had zero intention of deviating from his chosen route which didn’t involve where I was going!

The route started to turn gnarly at times, and if I thought hike-a-bike times were behind me….i was wrong! A couple of nasty rocky inclines put that assumption to bed, though even these were enjoyable (to a degree!!). And whilst the trajectory of the route was allegedly downhill to Banff, there were times when I questioned the cognitive abilities of the person who wrote the profile details, as there were times when it was anything other than downhill! But it was everything the Divide was meant to be – isolated, rugged, unpredictable, exciting, joyful, painful, annoying!

And so it was that the trail spits you at the Banff Fairmont Springs….an ostentatious 5 star hotel for societies ‘beautiful’ people….it was like being dropped in to a different universe after being out in the wilderness. I probably looked completely out of place covered in dust and dirt 🤣.

And then it was over…..months of trail and tribulations, highs and lows. I’ll write a reflection blog to bring this extraordinary experience to a close. But for today….the Divide has been experienced and ridden. Mission accomplished 😊

Calling out to the bears!

The last section of the Divide is a steady uphill drag from Fernie to Banff, with the last bit downhill…some sort of perverse reward for the near 200,000ft of climbing up to that point!

I left Fernie on a drizzly day after two full rest days in the Raging Elk hostel. With its fully equipped kitchen it enabled me to buy food to cook up meals, and I was even able to have milk with cereal and hot toast in the morning! Such a treat after instant porridge oats made in water!

The initial section of the Divide was on road so it helped things get moving again. The destination was Elkford, a mining town around 60 miles north of Fernie. Before long I was back on gravel, which then turned to mud after the rains. It took me up single track trails and forest fire roads. After about 2 hours Chris came by with two young doctors from Devon in the UK, so we rode together to Sparwood where we were able to grab coffee and cake – this was the last supply stop until Elkford. Once out of the town we joined this crazy mountain bike single track which just went up and down like a roller coaster, before eventually giving way to wider gravel trails. I was struggling to keep up with the group but it was good to hang with them as I then didn’t need to navigate!

As the trail moved ever skyward the puddles and surface became more and more unrideable. We would get bogged down in mud or our bike half submerged in puddles that could double up as swimming pools! The bikes got clogged with sticky mud meaning the wheels couldn’t turn….this was so reminiscent of that day when we got peanut butter mud….not fond memories! And then to add insult to injury the damn trail rose up a huge rocky climb for about 4 miles…what was so annoying is you could see Elkford below, but the Divide had to of course take you up and away from your destination because….well…it can. I was getting a hunger knock and was ‘hangry’ with the trail! And then I cramped. Badly.

Eventually we made it to Elkford where I grabbed a hot meal with the group before we went our seperate ways. I had a camp spot in the Municipal park so I headed there, pitched up, showered, shopped, ate and got to bed around 9…still cramping. And gee was it cold! The temperature plummeted and so I wore all my clothes to bed!

Penultimate day; Elkford to Boulton Lake

Today was a great day on the bike, long, but so enjoyable (mostly!). The trail in effect followed a forest track all day, with a consistent upwards trajectory for the day. What made it so enjoyable was that I decided to ride on my own – I felt yesterday I was trying too hard to keep up with the group and didn’t take enough care of my own needs, especially resting up and eating on the trail. What made it doubly enjoyable was the sublime scenery….omg it was so much eye candy it was difficult to know what to look at first. The mountains were simply sublime, aided by stunning sunshine. All along the trail were camp sites, often very basic sites with just a drop toilet and a picnic table. But l was determined to stop at each one, dispersed about every 10-15 miles apart. Each one provided a chance to rest, eat, drink and stop to be in the moment with the scenery. It also provide chances to meet South bounders to share intel of the trail ahead. I stopped for lunch at a camp called Weary Creek….which seemed most apt as I’m both weary and creaking!!

And I saw my first bear! Just poddling along and out of the corner of my eye saw a brown bear quietly walking away from the trail in to the forest…..gulp! There is so much wildlife to see here on the trail it’s magical.

There’s one humungous climb in this section, called Elks Pass, where you cross in to Alberta. From the south side (the side I’m coming from) it’s nasty, but the northern climb up is much worse. I managed to cycle about 1/2 of it before it got too steep so it was back to hike-a-biking! It plateaued out towards the top before descending down a stupidly steep descent…..only for the rider to have to climb back out of the valley …..i thought it was downhill once you crest a ‘Pass’….but apparently not. I met some poor bugger pushing his rig up that 19% climb and he enquired if indeed this was the right way ….‘surely the Divide wouldn’t take us up here’…..oh mate, you ain’t seen nuffin yet!!

Anyway, eventually the trail did descend to my campground, a state run camping facility. It was huge….it took me 20 minutes to climb up a hill to my designated spot which was another bike ride away from the showers!!

I eventually found my spot, got the tent up as it was due to rain, then cycled to get a shower and spoil myself in the camp store with chocolate and ice cream.

Tonight was my last night cooking pasta and tuna and it was so good being able to leave stuff behind now I won’t need it….just 60 miles tomorrow and this crazy journey is over. But it’s supposed to pour with rain so it’ll be a challenging day just to end it all!!

Final day (almost!)

So as predicted it lashed with rain starting around 3 in the morning. By the time I awoke at 5 my tent was dripping wet inside…..not a good experience! I had got everything in to my tent so I could get changed inside and had my breakfast ready to go! By the time I’d packed up I was drenched. And bloody cold….there was fresh snow on the mountain! I pondered what to do but decided I had to get moving, though by the time I got down to the main reception area (which was closed) I was shivering so bad, and very wet! I accessed wifi and contacted Charlie to discuss options. The rain was torrential and I didn’t fancy the muddy trail today. There is a road option but it was 145k, and I equally didn’t think I was up for that either!

Between us we hatched a plan to meet up on the road. So I kicked off, and after 10k was so cold I went into the Parks visitor centre to warm up. This was not how I had envisaged the final day, but the Divide is the gift that keeps on giving! Once I could feel my hands and feet I pushed on, with the rain slightly abating, enough to see a few metres in front. As I descended it started to clear a little to light rain, and the temp roared to 5 degrees 🤣.

After 35k I saw Charlie coming towards me….what a wonderful sight! We bundled Bob in to the car and headed for hot coffee in Canmore. It was a bitter sweet moment – being warm again, but not riding. So we hatched Plan B, a)for me to ride to Banff from Canmore, and b) to retrace ourselves back to the start of the trail next week and ride that final 50k stretch when it wasn’t as disgusting a day!

So it was that I rode the Legacy trail from Canmore to Banff….it was still raining but much lighter than this morning. I arrived in Banff and met up with Charlie and her partner Stephen for the obligatory photo….then it was back to their pad for a hot shower and clean clothes.

I’ll write a post script and reflection blog next week after we have been here, there and everywhere…..Charlie has an itinerary for my time here so it’s an exciting few days ahead…..plus the final 50k on the trail to be completed 😊

Video update 😊

Video Update

I awoke at the Bike Station in a soaking wet tent….next to a river + cold = condensation! But I got it dry before rolling it up, stuffed some breakfast in to me and got on my way around 7, destination Canada. I felt relieved to have gotten through the US without any medical issues – it was my one overriding concern-getting sick and accruing medical debt for life! Even with insurance it would have killed me. And even tho in Canada there’s still no free health service it’s not so hideously expensive!

Anyways, the route to the border was all tarmac. I stopped in Eureka for breakfast before taking the trail route away from the main road to the border at Roosville. Before I knew it I was in the queue to leave the US. I had expected US exit processes, but there was none….straight to Canadian border checks, which were really simple. No questions about my thoughts on their prime minister!!

And so here I was…..in Canada. I had dreamed of this way back in New Mexico when it looked highly unlikely I’d even get out of that state. The USA was finally behind me, Canada awaited. The trail followed a highway for quite some time, but it was pretty easy riding in the main, bar one stinker of a climb. I had decided, as it was getting on, that I’d stay on the road to Baynes Lake, where the trail resumed. Thankfully, there was a servo about 15 miles from the border….except it’s not miles, it’s now kilometres….where I was able to get out of the midday heat and stuff myself with chocolate and sandwiches 😊….in that order!! There’s something of a heatwave here so it’s damn hot from around 12:30.

The Lake was only 15 away, which went quickly. I was anxious as I had not booked anything, and the Canadian camping and parks system was still new. As I pulled in to the Lakes area, there was a sign ‘Camping’ so I pulled up…only to find signs everywhere saying ‘No overnight camping’….do Canadians only camp during daylight 🤣. There was a drop toilet, some water spigots and power….but no where to camp! I dawdled around the area, but there were no camp options, and the local RV park sign said ‘No Vacancies’. I thought I’d try anyway, and pulled in to what seemed like a permanent RV site, with vans attached to permanent structures….no camping here! Anyway, as I was about to leave I was approached by the camp host who offered me a site by the kids playground! Sold! I grabbed a shower and pitched my tent. There was a tiny laundry and reading area where I plonked myself for the evening as it was cooler. The owner popped in later and we struck up a conversation, which resulted in her going and returning with a bag of food – chicken stir fry, drink, salad and cherries!! Another trail angel!

Onward to Fernie
After a half decent nights sleep I was awake at 5 to decamp and hit the road. It was gonna be a hot one so I wanted to get the miles in early. There were few if any options for food or water, so I was prepared for a long day, tho in distance terms it was only around 40 miles, but progressively uphill.

The initial track was great – compact gravel and occasional tarmac, before turning on to a highway for a short while to Elko. What a hideous road that was – busy, noisy, and horrible hills. I had been pre warned about how bad it was, so was pleased to get to the top of a nasty climb to find a servo just at the turning for the trail. Morning coffee and midday snacks were bought which took the pressure off a bit.

The trail towards Fernie was quite simply divine. The trail was rocky, but very rideable, and the gradient a subtle 3-5%. The mountains formed an almost 360 degree backdrop….stunning. I was happily poodling along when….as is the Divides approach….the lovely gravel turned up a steep climb on a single track pathway riddled with rocks and puddles. Hike-a-bike time again! It’s truly amazing how the trail instantly changes. I was able to ride some of it, and I mustered my inner ‘Michael’ to ride the downhills, albeit slowly (Michael is a downhill demon!). I kept checking the GPX as I was convinced that this couldn’t possibly be the trail….it was! It only lasted about 4-5k before, as quick as it changed….it changed again, to compact gravel! I stopped for lunch midway up the climb and chatted to south bounders, including two Germans (a couple) who were easily in their late 60s heading to New Mexico! Eventually the trail spits you out in Fernie, a funky ‘hip’ sorta place surrounded by mountains. I’d booked a place in a hostel which had ‘pods’ you could book – it’s a dormitory style set up but with individual pods to sleep in, enclosed, with a fan and storage space and a curtain for privacy! perfect!

I plan to stay here tomorrow and sight see for once rather than rush through these towns without seeing anything. Chris, the guy I started with all those weeks ago, is likely to be here tomorrow so it’ll be so good to catch up. Michael was also due here but it’s his 65th birthday on Monday so he’s staying in eureka an extra few days….well deserved!

I’ll update when I head north in to the mountains – there’s at least one big pass to crawl over 🤨 between here and Banff but if it’s anything like today it’ll be extremely enjoyable!

Great Irish pub in Butte run by a guy from Co Antrim

Towards the Border
This morning I was up early to decamp whilst Charlie was fast asleep in her car! Kids….ppppffftt!

Having dragged her arse outta her bag we headed to Whitefish to get a hot breakfast before Charlie headed north to the border and home to Banff. I’d made the decision to ride to a small bike campsite about 10k from Eureka, mainly along the road to see how the sores were. That was the first mistake of the day. What a mad road it was, with no hard shoulder and stupidity emanating from every god forsaken RV and muscle ute along the road. I’m usually pretty chilled about coping with road madness, but this was dangerously unenjoyable. So after 10 miles I made the 2nd mistake….i dialled in to my Maps.me (remember this navigation system from my time in Asia….clearly I had forgotten!!) a route that took me off the road. Which it did, straight in to a trail just like the Divide. Initially it was quite enjoyable- rough, but enjoyable just to be back in nature…..and then fear took hold when I realised (slow learner!) that this was bear country, I was out in the middle of nowhere, in terrain that had clear signs of bears! I confess to being scared. I sang as loud as I could – apparently that helps distract them….in my case it probably just pissed them off even more! The trail turned to rocky ravines and then as always with Maps.me…disappeared. Now I was really worried! There was a fair bit of hike-a-biking to add to the stress, fallen trees, dead ends and crazy unrideable descents. Whilst I was relieved to come across a guy picking huckleberries on the trail, that relief was short lived when a) he told me two bears were in the area but an hour ago and b) he had a very large hand gun slung across his chest…..what was I gonna do, through my bicycle pump 🤣🤣! He was very kind and followed me on his quad bike until the trail reached a railway side track, which was less exposed to bear activity….another trail angel! That train track trail was great – until it wasn’t! Yet again Maps took me off trail ….to where there was no trail, so I had to push Bob through thickets and rocks to something that resembled a trail. And then I fell off!! There had been quite a bit of rain recently, so the trails were full of puddles which required you to pick a side, and then gun it through to the other side. I’d gotten most sides correct, but had misjudged a few resulting in soaking shoes and Bob up to his axles. Then on one huge puddle on a downhill, I had to make a split decision…..left or right….i got it wrong. Mid way across I lost balance and got thrown off Bob down a small ravine, while Bob landed in the puddle! I was scratched and bruised but ok, and Bob was mostly ok! Once I got up and riding, my knee, which took a smack off the handlebars as I parted company with Bob, really hurt so I had to take things easy for a while.
I eventually came back out on to the highway….and whilst it was still madness, there was at least a small hard shoulder, so I decided to haul myself to a nearby town to have something to eat. It was raining heavily by now, so my scratched legs were stinging like hell!

In Fortine there’s a tiny cafe (in fact that’s all there is there!) which served the most delicious sandwiches and cakes, so that’s what I had for lunch.

The Bike Station is a hiker-biker camp and hut site on the Divide which is where I headed for, some 6 miles from Fortine. My knee was very sore, so I was so happy to get to shelter and use the facilities at the camp to clean myself and Bob before pitching my tent and cooking tea in the common room.

It’s been an eventful reintroduction to riding on or near the Divide! From here it’s only a hop, skip and jump to the border with Canada 🇨🇦 😊