Ennis, and then north to Butte

My zero day in Ennis was such a relaxing day. I witnessed small town America celebrating its national 4July holiday with the town parade in the morning and fireworks in the evening, along with spectacular weather patterns shimmering off the mountains, from sun, rainbows, sun sets and moonlight shadows on the rocky outcrops. My hosts were unwaveringly gracious in their hospitality all day, and I felt so included in the family and community celebrations. I’ll certainly remember these few days here and this incredible family.

During the day I was able to plan the next leg of the trip, getting to Butte to meet Charlie on Monday and identifying some things we will do together in the few days she has in the US. First I need to get to Butte, around 95 miles away, so two days riding over a Pass then on to the town via Twin Bridges. Charlie will then drop me later in the week a wee bit north of Butte to allow me to reconnect with the Divide -hopefully by then my saddle wounds will have healed sufficiently to allow me to ride the final leg of the Divide from the border at Roosville to Banff. But we will see 😊. There are road options if I still can’t ride the trail, but I’m hopeful it’ll be ok after a complete rest.

Twin Bridges
I left my wonderful hosts after a fried breakfast and way too much coffee! Which turned out to be just as well as it was straight in to a 10 mile climb out of Ennis….pay back for the incredible descent a few days ago. There was an ominous sign from the time I put my butt cream on this morning …..it hurt like mad 😠 . And riding for over an hour up hill only made things worse….by the time I got to the top I couldn’t sit in the saddle 🥲. I enjoyed the downhill by riding out of the saddle and came in to Virginia City….a tiny cowboy gold rush town which was beautifully restored/maintained so it was like stepping back in time. The shops were all ‘olde worldy’ and quaint. I grabbed a choc milk and bar and sat in the morning sunshine watching the ‘stage crack’ tours and enjoying the ambiance.

Twin Rivers was 30 miles away, which seemed an eternity given the pain, but in the absence of any other option I climbed aboard Bob and we rolled out of town. The road was undulating, but nothing too strenuous tho I had to stop every few miles. I got in to a rhythm and managed to knock out the 30 miles to Twin by around 2.

I had identified a bike camp, a dedicated bike touring hut and camping in the grounds of the park so I headed there. It’s an amazing set up, with an inside ‘cabin’ with a couch and charging ports, and a dedicated shower accessed by sending a photo of myself and Bob to the town mayor!! And gee it was a sublime shower! I was there alone for the afternoon so dozed and read, then grabbed some food in the small town grocery store. I was a little unsure if it was ok to sleep in the cabin which would save putting up the tent, so I stayed up till late. There was nothing to stop homeless folks and teens congregating there as the cabin was open! So it was an uneasy evening waiting to see what would happen. I didn’t feel entirely safe with my tent up and Bob out in the open, so I decided to stay inside and dosed when I could – I knew I had a bed tomorrow so one sleepless night wasn’t too bad!

Butte bound
As it turned out, whilst I had a restless night due to some emotional baggage that had revisited me, it was an ok night in the Bike Camp cabin , sleeping on a rather smelly couch!

I awoke at 5:30 and got myself some breakfast before loading up and getting tyres to tarmac around 7. It was a delightfully sunny morning tho it was cold so I was well rugged up. I knew I had 55 miles to Butte and was aware of a climb mid way.

The first 20 miles were very chilled riding with little undulation and even a small tail wind. I had put on two bib shorts to give me some extra cushioning and it was working well.

Then the road went, er, uphill. And kept going. The scenery was stunning but the climb was long and hard. I think it was about 5 miles at around 6 % gradient. I named it the ‘Mountain of False Hope’ as time and again I thought I was at the top only to see the false ‘top’ take a further turn upwards. It was slow going but infinitely better than the rocks and gravel 😊. Mind you, after a few days on the tarmac I was perversely missing the solitude of the Divide. But I needed to get the sores under control so it was the right thing to be doing – I can endure (oops, I mean enjoy) the Divide again soon enough 😊. I wrestled Bob to the top of the climb and took a well deserved good break. It was only 22 miles to the outskirts of Butte. And so I enjoyed the downhill immensely- loads of switchbacks and fast corners, so Bob and I rolled in to Butte really early. From the outskirts of the town it was clear this was a town that had seen better days. It was ‘The Richest Hill on Earth’, a title earned by its historical mining boom – the huge open pit was visible as a backdrop to the sprawling town. Poverty has replaced prosperity.

I had booked a motel 9k out of town so took back roads to the motel, which gave me an insight in to the nature and level of poverty in Butte…and there was an underlying sense of unease as I pedalled through the outskirts of town.

I got to my motel around 1:30….and my room had a bath 🛀…..so I immersed myself in hot water for the first time in over a month. Oh gee how delicious it was.

It’s ironic I’m in Butte….when it’s my But that’s hurting so bad 🤣🤣.

An update on a few of my cycling buddies –
– Michael is going like a rocket and well on his way to the border.
– ⁠Jake is still camping out near Jackson as his Achilles heal (hopefully)
– ⁠RP, one of the Aussies I met before Grants has finished in Banff. Great riding.
– ⁠Chris the Forgetful is out of Helena and heading towards the border. He’ll get to Banff in less than 2 weeks.

The plan over the next few days is to catch up with Charlie tomorrow and then with her help pick a point to rejoin the Divide. It comes through Butte but the goes off east to Helena then back west towards Roseville border crossing. I may miss that loop as it seems to only go east to come back west! I can rejoin it north of Butte and enjoy the final 350 or so miles on the trail. Getting to Banff is my goal.

I’ll update when I’ve rested and picked a route to Banff.

Thank you 🙏🏻

Visitors to my tent last night 😊

I had made the decision to do tyre to tarmac today and stay off route. My confidence had taken a beating the last few days as well as my sores continuing to get worse due to the hammering from the unrelenting trail surface. So I headed out with the aim of getting to a town called Ennis where there was no accommodation as it was packed for the July 4 party-it’s become a fad thing to now go to Ennis for July 4. It was 73 miles on tarmac, but I was happy to wild camp mid way if needed.

The initial road was a very busy highway, jointed with trailer RVs and these massive converted coaches …Americans roughing it! I then turned off to a much quieter road heading north. I was quite in my element- good surface, sores not too bad, and making great progress. I had knocked over 20 miles by 9! I headed up over the Raynolds Pass then realised I had gotten to the Montana border 😊. The final US state! A couple in a car which had stopped at the border struck up a conversation with me and kindly gave me a banana and an apple….fresh fruit!

The descent from the Pass was sublime and so it remained for the next 50 of miles – a decidedly downward slope with a tail wind…..bingo! It was what I really needed to restore my love of cycle touring again. I stopped regularly and kept myself topped up with food and water from my supplies.

And before I knew it I’d done 118k and found myself in Ennis! A tiny village which had been overrun with tourists for the parade tomorrow and rodeo tonight! I looked out for a coffee shop, saw a cafe but then a bakery caught my eye so dawdled off to grab a coffee and cake, quite unsure where I might stay tonight. A couple outside the bakery struck up a conversation with me and I mentioned the challenge of finding a place to camp with the tourist influx….and they kindly offered me a room, shower and food for a few nights! What a stroke of good fortune. I agreed to meet them at the house in a few hours which gave me time to look around. I went to get that coffee in the bakery, and the owner, Tracy, gave me a coffee and a gigantic sandwich on the house….im liking Ennis very much 😊

I also met up with 4 other bikers all seeking accommodation!

When I did get to my hosts I was provided with such a warm welcome and a hot shower! They then fed me a humongous steak and then berry pie…..omg how good was this! They live on the edge of town with a view of the mountains. I’ve been invited to the parade tomorrow morning and a BBQ tomorrow night. Can’t get better than this!

I needed today to restore faith in myself and in bike touring. The Divide strips so much from you that it becomes a seemingly unending battle each day, grinding it out day after day. Riding Bob on tarmac for a few hours without cussing and cursing the sand, the rocks, the washboarding…was just what I needed.

Tomorrow I get to experience a true American tradition of July 4 partying. Looking forward to a zero day with a difference 😊

I headed off around 8 with a potential destination in mind around 45 miles away in Mack Inn. The trail arrived after a few miles of tarmac…..and up we went. For 30 miles!

The first part took me to a great camp area called Warm Rivers which was at the base of the climb, which was on an old rail line so the incline was only 3-4 %. And it was utterly divine. As the trail meandered upwards to my right was the most stunning gorge with a crashing cascading river – picture perfect! I took my time and just loved the trail. This was what I had hoped some of the Divide would be like. On and on it went as the river calmed as I climbed. But the sheer drop off the trail kept my attention on the path ahead as one mistimed move and you’d be over the edge…added something to the ride!

I had been told that the trail turned to sand for a 10 mile stretch and whilst it arrived as informed it wasn’t too stressful.

What was stressful was when the 10 mile of ‘sand’ finished….it really turned to sand! Nothing can describe the pain of riding a loaded bike in sand….it’s exhausting. You’d the chucking out big watts and going absolutely nowhere. There were some extreme expletives expressed as time after time Bob just came to a halt, forcing me to unclip to prevent a fall. I was exasperated to say the least. All my willpower evaporated after miles of this crap! What started out as pure joy turned to an emotional train crash! As well as a physical blow out. My sores were excruciating just to add to the joy of the day 🤣.

Eventually like all things on the trail the pain stopped when the trail turned on to a hell on earth highway – bumper to bumper with RVs and trucks! I didn’t care….it was tarmac. I pulled in to a servo and devoured a coke and sandwich whilst chatting to two lads who were quitting – they were buggered by 9 days of hell on the trail – I could completely empathise!

I decided to push on a few more miles to Mack’s Inn and found a camp ground to crash for the night.

I’ve been chatting to Charlie about our catch up next week….which I can’t wait for! But as I stated to plan my route to Butte it became obvious that there was feck all camping or accommodation for the next 3-4 days ….4th July!!! Dooh! I’ve resigned myself to wild camping to avoid the madding crowd, and to take the road. The trail does go to Butte but I cannot face another day like today, and neither can my sores! I’m emotionally and physically drained and I know if I push too hard it’ll not end well! My priority has now shifted to a) getting through the madness of July 4th and b) meeting up with Charlie somewhere in mid Montana to spend time with her, jump forward a bit and then push through the final leg to Canada and ultimately Banff. Yep, I’ll miss some of the Divide but to be honest…..that’s ok! Cycling across the US can be done a number of ways! I’m looking forward to the challenge of the Divide again for the last two weeks but for now I need to stop hating it and get myself emotionally and physically fit enough for that final push. 😊

Turn the volume up to hear the crashing water – fabulous

Today was a day I’d been dreading -parting company with Jake after 6 weeks of incredible riding together. We had met in the Toaster House in Pie Town a few days after I’d started riding after Valley Fever. Somehow we had managed to ride some of the toughest parts of the Divide together with hardly a bad word between us. But now it was time to part ways and go on our separate journeys. Jake’s intends to stay at his friends campsite for at least a week before heading south…even talking about going back across the Basin. In Divide terms, northbounders are called NOBO. South bounders are called SOBO. I now refer to Jake as a NOBOSOBOHOBO 🤣🤣.

I left the camp around 8:30 after wishing my Aunt and Uncle happy birthdays – my Uncle Russell is 80 very soon! Jake and I agreed it wasn’t goodbye but rather ‘au revoire’ -I’m damn sure we’ll meet again!

Riding on my own for the first time since week 1 was both strange but also enjoyable too. I had planned a route through the Tetons which wasn’t too challenging and not too long – around 35 miles. I took the back road through Kelly and Moose, and took the Teton road. I stopped for a morning coffee just before the Park entrance where you needed to pay $20 to access the park. As I was waiting to pay a lady in a car also queuing politely exclaimed ‘there’s a bear 10 metres behind you in the trees’! I didn’t stay around to see! I got in to the Park and was treated to a cycle lane all the way to Jenny Lake….which was just as well as gee, the road was jammed with RVs, cars and caravans. High season here! Jenny Lake was stunning….the whole area is stunningly beautiful with the rugged Tetons forming a majestic backdrop right through the Park. I stopped again at the Lake….i was determined to slow down and also give my sores a break. I grabbed a coke but it was so thronged I had to get away – too many people!

The next part of the ride was on the road but overall it wasn’t too bad with drivers giving you plenty of space. I was treated to some incredible views and loads of wildlife.

I got to the national park camp at Colter Bay around 2:30. This is a state run park which has designated ‘hiker-biker’ camping which was just as well as the campsite was full. There’s a grocery store here which charges obscene prices for basic stuff but I treated myself to a ham sandwich and milk coffee and a fruit bowl – delicious. The rest of the afternoon took on a familiar routine – tent up, bike sorted, wash and cook an evening meal.

I got a call from Chris, the guy I started this mad trip with all those weeks ago. He’d had endless problems with losing things and bike issues but he’s such a determined guy he’s kept going. Now after a week with friends in Wyoming he’d rejoined the Divide and had had crazy puncture issues today and was now stuck in the middle of nowhere with no spare tube and constant punctures. He’d been helped by a passer by but he was stressed – as he said, after the third puncture ‘I cried’. The Divide does that to those who choose to tackle it. But it also throws up kindness and ‘coincidences’ which defy logic but which can be lifesaving, like the guy in the Augustine Plains who rescued me, and like Chris’s ‘trail angel’ today.

Idaho
After a crappy night as my stupid air bed got another puncture I got up and packed away then scooted over to the camp restaurant where they were serving breakfast for $12 . Cereal, fruit, yogurt and muffins. Mysteriously some muffins jumped in to my pannier …..weird 🤣. I started out with a guy called Max from the UK – he’s a strong rider (and much younger!) so it was hard to stay with him but managed it until the gravel when he just sped off – oh to have that ability. The first part of the gravel was actually very good with some extraordinary scenery. It was good to ride at my own pace and stop when and where I wanted to, but I missed the lads. I took a break at a reservoir before things started to go a wee bit pear shaped….in that the gravel turned to sand. Good god that was crazy hard. Bob would just bog down and more times than I could count the front wheel went one way and the rear the other! I really struggled. I had identified a camp ground around 35 miles in but was anxious about bears! I met a lot of south bounders which broke up the monotony of the sand riding. Mid way there was a lodging hut just off the trail which could be rented out. I got around the gate and found two huts and a toilet…and a well pump which eventually spewed lovely water – I was out, so perfect timing. I stayed there for an hour resting in the midday sun and wind. I was buggered. But I knew I wasn’t supposed to be there so decided I’d try for a campground a further 14 miles on. I crossed the border in to Idaho and mile by mile clawed my way to the ranch where I could camp. It was a quirky place with the hostess out of her head on something and her long suffering husband cooking up meals! It was a great little set up, with showers, hot water, a camp kitchen but also serving meals!

I had to do a load of work on Bob as well as try fix my airbed….both I think were achieved 😊. Time then to fill my face with burger and chips before setting up camp. I connected with Michael and shared war stories. He sent me the following message:

Been thinking about all I’ve learned and benefited from riding with you. Top three lessons: 1) weight beats watts, 2) never pick up your bike by the saddle, and 3) pace line like a champ w good manners.

Gee I miss him, and the others, but have built lifelong friendships.

Before the sand…it was lovely!

Riding, riding, riding!!

On Friday Jake and I packed up with a shared sadness about saying goodbye to our hosts. We had a 95 mile stretch (over two days) ahead of us off the trail as Jake’s Achilles were painful, and my sores equally so, so the idea of trail riding wasn’t appealing and would do nothing for our respective hopes of healing.

It wasn’t long before it was apparent that Jake’s tendons were significantly worse than thought. Even on tarmac he dropped behind almost from the get-go. He’d been such a support to me, so it was my turn to go slow, support and ensure he took breaks. By mile 15 it was clear this ride wasn’t gonna happen. So we stuck our thumbs out to get a lift as close as we could to Jackson, where we were heading in order to resume the trail. It only took 15 mins before we were picked up by a great guy called Patrick who took us 50 miles down the road towards our destination – happy days. And so it was we entered the Tetons in a car and not on bikes….but that’s all part of the journey I guess. We were dropped at a servo from which we could ride the 30 k to Jackson along a glorious bike path away from the heaving RV traffic. We had to take it super slow to avoid further injury. We hit town at around 3 and headed straight to McDonald’s to reload with carbs! Jake had connected with his friends with an RV in a town called Moose and they came and collected us and took us through a sightseeing trip through the Tetons – so glorious. They work in the Park so have free RV camping which we could use as guests, with showers and laundry. We’d done 30 or so miles of cycling and covered nearly 90 in total, putting us ahead of our planned schedule.

As my saddle sores were pretty bad I’d decided to take at least two days off whilst enjoying the free camping and wifi! Those two days were spent trying to figure out what to do. I have honestly come to the end of my physical abilities- I’m exhausted, and after a wonderful few weeks with Jake, Mike, Scott and Rob we are all going our separate ways which I’m struggling with – not only in terms of company but also a sense of anxiety about being alone on the trail. I know now just how brutal it is, and how utterly important it is to have companionship in such tough terrain. I have still got 1000 miles ahead on the trail route as it doesn’t go straight up to Banff but meanders through hundreds of miles of trails in all directions. Water is less of an issue here at least, but there are long stretches away from anyone or anything.
My objective was to get to Banff to spend time with Charlie. The Divide was one way of doing that. I’ve had 7 weeks of the trail and know that at times it’s beaten me. It’s been sublimely difficult but achingly beautiful too.

On my second rest day I decided to ride in to Jackson to buy a US SIM and resupply for the ride ahead starting tomorrow. Jake tried to ride but knew immediately it wasn’t gonna happen for him. The ride to Jackson was very pleasant along a designated bike path, but my sores were still aggravated which is worrying.

So tomorrow, from a gang of 5, it’s now back to solo riding. Michael is a day ahead of me and going strong. Scott and Rob are in Yellowstone and Jake, well Jake is somewhat stuck here for now until his Achilles heal, then he’s heading back down the Divide! What an adventure he’s going to have. We have become incredibly close so it’ll be strange without him cracking his jokes and being a great ride buddy. But our journeys are going different ways and that’s the nature of these experiences.

I’ll write when I’m back on the trail and I’ve sone idea where I’m going!

Best wishes to everyone and thank you all for your comments of support -they are always read and deeply appreciated (tho I don’t respond specifically to each as I’ve often only got a hotspot access)