The Road to Adelaide

On Sunday there was a sense that I was at the ‘beginning of the end’…somehow the ending of the Princes Highway signalled the end of the first half of the journey from Sydney to Adelaide. In my head it did anyway! After a days rest In Traralgon, I headed to Leongatha which took me along back roads and another rail track – I was getting used to the solitude of these trails and looked for them whenever I could. This one was very pleasant and eventually dropped me close to Leongatha but not close enough, as I had to ride some wicked hills that really stretched me. I had booked in with a Warm Showers host but he didn’t show up, so I had to make last minute arrangements with a campsite, but it all worked out ok!

The next few days, indeed, the next week, followed a predictable pattern- ride, eat, sleep, repeat. I travelled through Mornington, across the ferry to Queenscliff, then hit the Great Ocean Road (or rather, it hit me!). It is truly a beautiful road, with breathtaking vistas, but it’s not for the faint hearted. There are some brutal climbs (the road to Levers Hill is heart breaking!), and of course there’s loads of caravans and mobile homes to contend with. But overall it’s a delight to ride. The last day on the GOR, from Princetown to Warrnabool, is utterly beautiful. Its beauty was amplified by a tail wind!

In terms of accommodation I had mixed experiences- Warm Showers hosts in Mornington and Queenscliff, a few nights of wild camping and a couple of ‘showground’ camping sites (very basic facilities!). Perhaps the best night was at Princetown where I camped right on the beachfront, along with other travellers who, as night descended, made a camp fire and brought out guitars and harmonicas….a great evening!

Once off the GOR it was back on the highways, presenting me with pretty monotonous kilometres of riding, interrupted only by being scared sh1tless by massive trucks passing way way too close for comfort! But I was blessed with a fairly continuous south easterly wind….and as I was travelling north-west….bingo!! I was clocking over a 100 most days in order to make it to Adelaide by the 28th, but the wind assisted days made that eminently possible. I certainly knew it when the road turned in to the wind!! I travelled up through Heyfield, Mount Gambier, and Narracorte, en route to Keith and onwards to Strath.

So, with 4 days to go and about 400 to cover, it’s all looking good to be in Adelaide very soon!

Tuesday: Bush camping at Bellbird
Today was a ‘Princes Highway’ day….put simply, a day of tarmac, traffic and tortuous hills. Whilst there was some relief from the rising mercury from the forested areas, at no point was it particularly enjoyable. I arrived at the one and only ‘pub’ along the Highway called Bellbird Creek and asked to camp in their back garden area which I was allowed to do. The publican, a guy called Gary, was a quite a character, a true Aussie story teller and mad as a cut snake. He had bought the bar about 4 weeks before the devastation of the bush fires, and then covid hit, so in 3 years he’d been open about a couple of months. He was a fanatical motorcyclist, with his numerous bikes positioned all around the bar, including one on the counter top! In the evening, oa caravan pulled in to stop for the night – a couple from Perth. The three of us sat in the bar that evening talking rubbish and telling stories of our respective journeys- a wonderful evening, made all the more pleasurable when the caravanning couple cooked tea and made me an egg and bacon sandwich on Wednesday morning….delicious.

Wednesday wheely: turning left on to the Princes first thing in the morning I was greeted with a humongous climb to get the day going, but I knew that in 10k I was leaving the highway at least for 2-3 days, so that made the initial climbs a bit more palatable!. I eventually turned off after doing battle with some stupidly challenging climbs to head to Cape Conran and Marlo, both along the coast. It was divine – glorious coastline with smooth roads and a tail wind!! And no hills or traffic! I stopped in Marlo for a coffee, then headed to Orbost. Just a few K out …bang. Spokes were a’poppin on the back wheel! I limped to a campsite ($40….I said I wanted to rent a space, not buy it!) and set to work fixing Bob, who was starting to implode – at a certain amount of distance, everything gets to a point of being worn out at the same time, and this things start to go wrong in sequence!. This was that time! I made some temporary repairs including changing disc pads and fixing the spokes, but I knew it was temporary and needed a workshop to do proper work. I also knew the next two days were going to be punishing as they were both off road/trail days!

A day to remember: the Orbost to Bairnsdale rail trail is a 97k bike/walk track between these two Victorian townships….and it is simply fantastic. The trail is mainly flat, with a mixture of gravel, sand, rock, and paved sections, which meander through forested areas and open agricultural land. It’s teeming with wildlife. I had, I think, one if not the best days on the bike. Even tho the day was a 100+ k day I didn’t want it to end. Then the back wheel well, sort of stopped being a wheel! The rim had cracked between spokes so had become completely unviable! I got to the bike shop in Bairnsdale, and had to disassemble the remains of the wheel and rebuild a new one with my stuff on it. The bike shop were fantastic- they let me get on and use their tools, and found me a second hand rear wheel, but it was a different size to the front, but with no other option it would have to do! It required a new tyre as the wheel size was different plus of course new tubes! Necessity being the mother of all invention, we somehow made it all work!! That night I stayed with a warm showers host, Steph, who was wonderful, and fed and watered this knackered cyclist. Despite the end of day dramas, nothing could dent my delight at the day’s wonderful riding. It also taught me so much about just adapting to troubles when they emerge, to not panic or give in but trust that with thought, time and patience things can be resolved. And that ‘good enough’ is absolutely fine -it doesn’t need to be perfect, just good enough. I think Bob is breaking every rule in the book in terms of what you can and can’t do with bike parts!

On Friday I was again able to jump on to a disused rail track which would take me to Traralgon, but it required a 47k dash along the Highway to get to it. Luckily it was overcast, so the ride along the highway wasn’t made unbearable by the increasingly hot days. Once in Stratford (upon Avon….love how the Aussies have plagiarised and monetised English heritage names….the website for the town was something like ‘Shakespeare.country.au!) I joined to rail trail, somewhat concerned about my $50 back wheel, which would be much more at home being gently guided around a lake pathway by an octogenarian on a Sunday afternoon than on a bumpy trail fully loaded! Whilst I was off the Highway, the trail wasn’t quite as engaging as the day before -it was actually quite boring! It passed through endless fields with little to see but curious cows. It was stinking hot too. I stopped for lunch in a small village called Heyfield where I was entertained by an old lady called Dawn, who initially asked about the bike, then regaled me with her life story! Then left!
The rest of the trip to Traralgon was pretty uneventful other than a puncture which I needed to fix in the midday heat with no shade to be found….not a pleasant experience! And don’t get me started on the bloody flies!

By the time I rejoined the Princes at Traralgon it was 4, very hot and the highway a heaving mass of grey nomads! I arrived at my host for the night completely buggered! And with another puncture! But the rear wheel held up to the task!
I had been cycling now for 8 days straight and I knew I was utterly spent so I asked to stay two nights with my wonderful hosts, Georgie and Dave, who kindly agreed, which was just as well as Saturday was the hottest day in Victoria this summer apparently! Georgie and Dave have cycled in South Asia and trekked in India and other Asian countries, and sharing our stories was a great way to spend my time with them.

Only another 1000 to go 😊

Having arrived in Sydney to my mates home in Avalon on the 24th, I promptly fell very sick – fever, cough, blinding headache….,it wasn’t covid at least, but whatever it was it totally buggered up my Christmas and New Year. I sensed my body had simply had enough -I was hurting in places I didn’t know I had!. What made it all bearable was staying with my old school friend Dave and his family. We had a wonderful time tripping down memory lane most evenings. It was so lovely to just stop, and whilst I was pretty sick, it still was such a delight to be with Dave and Sonja and their wonderful 3 young adults.

Perhaps against my better judgement I said goodbye to Dave and family on the 2nd January and headed for Wollongong. Dave drove me to the ferry at Cronulla, then once on the other side it was straight in to the National park and….climbing! Endlessly climbing! It was one hell of a shock to an already depleted body! I climbed for what seemed like forever until I came out on to a glorious headland and was greeted with the eastern seaboard rugged coastline. The route hugged the coast all the way to Wollongong, but I found it incredibly tough riding as I was either climbing or descending. I was able to camp in a warm showers hosts garden that night, which was very pleasant. On Tuesday I headed off to Shoalhaven Heads. Again, it was torturously tough riding, constantly climbing short steep climbs – this was turning in to a real battle between me and the road. I also knew I was not able to put the power down I needed -the cough was persisting and that meant constant super high heart rates….not so good! I was utterly shattered after only 70k and was glad to arrive at the Heads. I went to dip my feet in the ocean, then headed to my host, a guy called Dennis who was simply fantastic.

The next day I was empty and knew I had a big ride to Batemans Bay, but Dennis, seeing how poorly I was, and given the wet and windy weather, kindly took me and Bob to a town half way to Batemans! It left me with only 60k. But no sooner had I started riding I knew things were not right- aside from the headwind and rain and the hideous Princes Highway, my body was packing up. Every pedal stroke was painful and I had no energy at all. But with no other option I had to push on to Batemans where I knew I could rest at my cousins place. I did manage to struggle to Batemans but it was at a cost….I was completely exhausted. It felt like I’d done 160 not 60!
The real challenge now was what to do. The Princes Highway is a shite road full of holiday traffic and which was incredibly undulating, with those long sweeping uphills which cyclist hate. There was southerlies forecast (headwind) and rain for the next few days. There is no public transport and all the campgrounds were fully booked with it being holiday season. And on top of that I was physically exhausted and sick. I stayed with my cousin Thursday and tried to rest, but I sensed that riding all day in the rain on Wednesday really weakened me. I must confess to simply wanting to teleport myself to Adelaide and call it a day!! Alas, that option wasn’t immediately available so I decided to ride for one more day and if things didn’t improve I’d head back to Sydney, it being much closer than Melbourne. So on Friday I got going, in to a shite headwind but reasonably dry day. It was a carbon copy of the preceding days of cycling with stupidly tough, short, steep climbs with a short descent, (which you had to pedal in to with the head wind) then straight on to the next stinker! I managed to do 55k and got to my Warm Shower hosts Maree and Bruce who put me up in their caravan – luxury! They were delightful hosts, even taking me to the local bowls club for a Chinese! Maree was a font of knowledge about the local road network, giving wonderful info about where to go and what to see.

On Saturday I resumed my battle with the Princes Highway but thankfully was able to follow Marees directions to some side roads that took me along some glorious coastlines and meandering country lanes. In the afternoon I stopped early as I was tired and so pitched my tent on the banks of Lake Wallaga – such a achingly beautiful place.
On Sunday I had the biggest ride since leaving Asia, so I set off early along a route that, despite the continuous climbing, was stunning, with breathtaking vistas across bays, high surf and cliffs. It took me through some of the worst affected areas of the NSW bush fires, with constant reminders of the devastation. It was sobering. I stayed that night with a couple who had cycled in Mongolia and many other incredible places, and were planning their next multi month tour. Their place was in the fire zone of the last big fires here and it was terrifying to listen to what they had to experience on those darkest of days. On Monday I started the three day trek across a stretch of the Princes Highway where there are few options for food, water or camping.
It’s a 200 or so K stretch which crosses the border in to Victoria and ends in Orbost. It was hot, hilly and hard! These days are about getting from A to B – just turning the pedals and getting the Ks done. I found a free camp on the banks of a lovely river in Genoa and had a restful evening, readying myself for stage 2!

It’s been a real personal experience and challenge so far. I must confess to simply wanting to pack it in. But like so many times on the journey it’s been about adjusting to the challenge rather than being defeated by it. So I’ll push on towards Melbourne which is around 580 away….so not far 🤣.

Monday: I started Monday with my usual Banh Mi – crusty roll with egg – in a small street food stall where I got chatting with Vietnamese family who spoke English…and who paid for my breakfast! It’s lovely when hospitality like that is extended to us travellers 😊
The ride was only short today on account of starting late due to a work related commitment but….it was an incredible day of cycling. After having noodles and omelette I hit the road – it was stinking hot 🥵 and the first 8k was straight uphill! But as I crested the climb, I was again greeted with another great vista….this time the mountains gave way to the sea. As I turned west towards Vung Tau the wind was on my back and the scenery just got better and better. The road hugged the coastline, which invariably meant some great descents but some stinkingly hard climbs, but with the ocean to my left and the wind on my back, I didn’t care. The road surface was so smooth and options for eating plentiful. I passed through some touristy towns with a growing number of international travellers on motorbikes, and countless groups of tourists using a popular option of a Jeep hire. I arrived at my evening stop very tired but utterly content, which was capped off by a sunset on the beach not 100 metres from the homestay I rested in for the night. One of those days when riding your bike is pure delight!

Tuesday: I had hoped today would be a repeat of yesterday, but I was disappointed. Whilst the route followed the coast for most of the 100k, it was drab and deserted, and kind of unsettling to see how Covid has wrought havoc to otherwise bustling resorts (one can assume they were pre Covid). I went through whole resort ‘villages’ which were bereft of any signs of life. Kilometre after kilometre the same story was retold, with half finished buildings and resorts, offering up a feeling of an unending ghost town. Maps.com also messed up again, this time sending me off down a road for a few kilometres to a bridge I needed to use to get across the river, only to find the bridge ….no longer in use 🤣…so back I went! It added another 10k in total to my tiring day but …you just gotta get on the pedals and ride!

And whilst it was incredibly hot today, so not a pleasant day for riding ….and you won’t hear me say this too often…I loved the cool sea breeze headwind, as it kept things reasonable, unless I was crawling up one of the countless short but nasty climbs when I was going so slow there was no wind!!

I met a couple of fellow long distance cyclists with fully loaded bikes – he was from the UK and she from the Netherlands (and thus declared she hated hills….I had to break some bad news to her!). They are doing south east Asia for a few months, then he was off to a supported bike ride across Norway….from one extreme to another! I’ve met surprisingly few long distance riders this trip but when I do it’s a real treat to hear about their journey, and swap war stories!

After the thriving resort towns of yesterday, to see the harsh reality today was shocking.

My final full day of cycling in Asia was a 70k coastal ride which pretty much replicated Tuesdays ride – in short, boring! Until I got to Vung Tau when the traffic suddenly erupted in to utter chaos. On far too many occasions I had too close a call for comfort…..to recall but one….a fully loaded moped on which the driver (assuming there was one) could not see behind him to check before launching in to the road….just launched in to the road completely unannounced. If I had been a car or bus he would have been crushed. That’s the idiocy of the driving here. Brain dead driving! With relief I got to the hotel after finishing my ride on the promenade….a beach full of tourists enjoying the evening sun. I met up with Tim, a guy I’d met three weeks ago at the cabins by the National Park….we shared a drink and chatted about our respective journeys.

Fast and Furious…
On Thursday I got on the Vung Tau to Saigon city centre ferry – a two hour fast ferry boat trip, infinitely less stressful than trying to cycle in to Saigon ….memories of Bangkok….! It was an amazing experience- it was a small ferry and trying to get Bob on to the ferry as it bobbed (excuse the pun) and bounced around on an equally unstable gangway was hilarious! Having cleared the harbour of Vung Tau the ferry powered its way up the estuary to the city centre, with the river traffic incrementally increasing in line with the emerging high rise and water rubbish….it stank! The ferry drops you right in the centre of Saigon….what a sight to see. Just as anticipated, the traffic was off the charts! But surprisingly it was actually perfectly ok to cycle in …..I have learnt to simply push through and ignore everyone else because….you snooze, you lose. I got to the hotel unscathed 😊. In the evening I met a small group of cyclists who took me go a rooftop bar to see a wonderful sight of Saigon at night.

On my final day in South Asia I got to the airport with plenty of time…,as it turned out I could have stayed in the city for a few hours more as my flight was delayed! Vietnam…..the gift that just keeps on giving!!

I arrived in Sydney 4 hours late but incredibly….so did Bob! Dave, my pal from school days, picked me up and drove me to his family home in the Northern Beaches.
I’ll stay with Dave a few days then I’ll hit the road to Adelaide via Melbourne. Some more testing days ahead but looking forward to it very much.