Final Wishes

Some great fords to cross along the coastline.

Final wishes

I spent two days in Whitley Bay, barely venturing out due to the hideous wind and rain. I certainly picked the right day to be stationary!

I did however discover Whetherspoons – a large pub food chain selling very well priced meals, and an unending ‘refill for free’ supply of coffee, so I spent hours there using their wifi and eaves dropping on North Yorkshire life! I strolled along the promenade in what was supposed to be an English summer…..you know, howling wind, deserted beaches, sideways rain!
Unfortunately my rest day shot by like a heat seeking missile….when you look forward to something, it comes and goes twice as fast!

On my first day back I was looking forward to seeing some of the coastline Alison had spoken so fondly about, but unfortunately I was greeted with a 50kph+ headwind all day. I got to Seaton Sluice, where Alison’s family heralds from, and on to Blyth, a very run down seaside town. I couldn’t find anything vaguely resembling a coffee shop so had a Gregg’s ‘coffee’ before venturing further north. I was treated to some incredible landscapes, rolling hills, quiet lanes and howling wind, though it was very warm. I arrived at Alnwick late afternoon and quickly visited the castle, featured in Harry Potter movies! I stayed with two wonderful hosts in a glorious old house. The next day I had lovely weather again, but that northerly was not going to bugger off any time soon. I however traversed the back lanes of the north east English coastline, dipping in and out of bays, harbours and castles….a wonderful day of riding (bar the wind). I managed to get out to Holy Island, a small monastic island which can be accessed by a tidal causeway. The sun was out, the scenery sublime and the riding good ….bar that bloody wind!  I stayed in Berwick upon Tweed, the last town before Scotland.

So on Sunday I rode north across the border. The border was on a main road and I didn’t want to scatter dad anywhere near there, so made the decision to get to Dunbar, a small harbour village. I hugged the coastline which gave me access to tiny little villages and secluded coves.

I got to Dunbar, and went to a quiet part of the rocky beach area and here said my final farewell to dad. A humbling experience, but one made easier by knowing it was dad’s final wish. After a coffee and scone, I headed to Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital. Despite it being a large city I was able to get to the centre by cycle tracks. Whilst this kept me off the busy roads, I was constantly treated to some of the worst track conditions, which battered me and Bob, who was starting to groan….as was I! I was so grateful to get to a warm showers host living just off Leith Walk. It had been a tough and emotional day, one which I’ll always remember.

On Monday I hit the hills south of Edinburgh as I rode towards the ferry to Ireland. The weather was stunning, matched by a) the wind….and b) the scenery! I tried to just ‘be’ in the moment rather than focusing on the remaining kilometres. The hills were long and hard, with speeds regularly dropping to 6-8 kph. But the scenery was worth every climb. It is soul destroying to put in so much energy and going nowhere…..but without any pressure to be somewhere it’s easier to just ride in to it. I stopped regularly to just sit and look at the hills and moors. And incredible day….until it wasn’t!

My host for that night was in a tiny crop of houses in a settlement hardly marked on the map. It was desolate and barren moorland. On arrival it was clear this was nothing short of a dumping ground for Scotlands down and outs. There were about 100 or so houses, all council, all in a poor state of repair. Poverty was palpable. My host lived in one of these houses. To say it was an horrendous experience is an understatement! The place was nothing more than a squat, full of rubbish, broken furniture, and about as unhygienic as one can get! My host showed me where I was sleeping….it was a room so utterly cluttered with crap there was no bed but a camp bed style thing with sleeping bags which were full of mould. And my host smoked marijuana constantly! Given its location I had no other options….the next town was over 20k away and the weather was quickly changing. But as I’ve done in other places in India and Africa I sought to make it work. It was a long evening! But it came and went, and when I got out of my squalid surroundings at 7 the next morning it was lashing with rain and the wind was blasting through the broken windows! Despite my host insisting I stay another day…..I hit the road! It was a 90k ride to Dumfries. It was I think the toughest day on the bike. The rain was so bad the roads were flooding, the hills unrelenting and the wind incessantly in to my face! I kept cycling as it was the only way to stay warm. Kilometres came and went, and I made the decision to simply keep riding the total distance. As it was there were no shops, garages or places to stop anyway. The only stop was in a bus shelter when the rain was so intense it was dangerous. I used the time to change clothes, then headed back in to the battle! Surprisingly, I managed the 90 in 5 hours, arriving in Dumfries in time for a well earned coffee and scone! I had booked in to a cheap guesthouse for two nights, and after the night before this was a well earned rest break!

When I put on my casual clothes I was reminded of the night before as they all stank of smoke ….i hope I don’t get stopped at the border in to Ireland🤣. I spent the rest day catching up with friends, emails and resting best I could. I made the mistake of waiting to hear back from a Warm Shower host before booking the ferry so when I did try to book…,sold out! The only option was a morning ferry meaning I had to ride 65k before 10 on Friday morning….thats going to be a stressful ride! I hope next time I write I’ll be reporting that I made it on time!

Best wishes to everyone. T

A final farewell ❤️