Siem Reap…temples and toilets!
Angkor Wat is one of the 7 wonders of the world, so it was with respect to that title I discarded my usual disregard of touristy ‘things’ and headed to the main temple. First you need to buy a ticket at the official (and only) ticket office, which bizarrely isn’t near the temple complex! So I jumped in a tuk-tuk, got me a ticket ($US37 ….ouch) and got to experience the incredible temples up close. Built in the 12th century, they are mind blowing in terms of the sheer intricacies of every etching on every stone ….and I mean every stone. Quite extraordinary. I understand they were initial a bright red stone but with centuries of wear, tear and rain the whole complex is a rather dull grey/black…..such a contrast to the explosions of colour in more contemporary temples. Three hours of that and I was done as the heat started to really ramp up. But I’m glad I went…it’s odd being without the bike and simply being another western tourist….I guess that’s what I’ve always been but the bike brings something different to the hoards! What I have noticed is how children shout ‘hello’ to you on the bike, and school kids going to and from school on their bikes jump in and ride a while.
There is a yawning inevitability when travelling that you’ll end up with the runs – In Africa we had such endearing (and not so subtle) terms like the ‘Casablanca kick-step’, the ‘Rabat revenge’, or my favourite…the ‘Tuareg trickles’. Not sure what term to use here – Siem S*^ts’? Cambodian Craps?? Anyway….they duly arrived! I think it’s more a case of heat exhaustion than food poisoning of any description. So I’ve done the sensible thing (I know, right, who’d have thought..me…sensible!) and booked myself a longer stay here in Siem until I’m recovered. Quietly, I’m not unhappy to have an ‘excuse’ – I’m not liking the riding here one bit, and with temperatures in the ‘feels like) range of 40-45, I’m getting agitated whenever I’m in the sun for any time at all. Plus….I have to wait for my visa to Vietnam to come through so I can print it off….once I leave here there’s no major towns until vietnam (or accommodation options but I’ll meet that challenge when I have to!).
I’m keen to get to the Killing Fields museum here soon – I hear it’s gut wrenching, but I want to learn more about this country’s brutal past, and to pay my respects to the challenges contemporary Cambodia has to face in coming out of the shadows of that collective trauma.
Every inch of every wall is intricately carved depicting an extraordinary story of the battles of various gods and kings.
The contrast of the old grey stone and the vibrant orange of the monks really was amazing to see
Such an incredible place.
One of the towers – unimaginable intricacy of masonry.
Keeping watch!
Love the photos Tony.. i’ve seen photographs of the monumental buildings, towers and steps before but I’ve never seen the intricate carvings ….and on every stone. Astonishing!
I’ve seen documentaries on the amazing hydro engineering of the Khmers but nothing says to me just how extensive and successful their agriculture would have been to produce a big enough surplus to support the huge numbers of stone masonry artists they must have had. Did they have a lot of slaves?
I also really like the shots you took with the contrasting orange robes of monks against the grey stones. The place must have been something else again when red.
We will look forward to your account of your visit to the Killing Fields museum. How millions find the strength and determination to recover from such brutality and mass trauma seems a miraculous act of the human spirit to me.
Hope your belly woes are able to be treated and you avoid further dehydration in the heat. We love the way you say children say hi to you while riding Bob, or join you. But still, given the heat and belly risks it’s a shame there isn’t a train or bus to the Vietnamese border. Take care. All good wishes and love from us.