The Tetons

Today was a day I’d been dreading -parting company with Jake after 6 weeks of incredible riding together. We had met in the Toaster House in Pie Town a few days after I’d started riding after Valley Fever. Somehow we had managed to ride some of the toughest parts of the Divide together with hardly a bad word between us. But now it was time to part ways and go on our separate journeys. Jake’s intends to stay at his friends campsite for at least a week before heading south…even talking about going back across the Basin. In Divide terms, northbounders are called NOBO. South bounders are called SOBO. I now refer to Jake as a NOBOSOBOHOBO 🤣🤣.

I left the camp around 8:30 after wishing my Aunt and Uncle happy birthdays – my Uncle Russell is 80 very soon! Jake and I agreed it wasn’t goodbye but rather ‘au revoire’ -I’m damn sure we’ll meet again!

Riding on my own for the first time since week 1 was both strange but also enjoyable too. I had planned a route through the Tetons which wasn’t too challenging and not too long – around 35 miles. I took the back road through Kelly and Moose, and took the Teton road. I stopped for a morning coffee just before the Park entrance where you needed to pay $20 to access the park. As I was waiting to pay a lady in a car also queuing politely exclaimed ‘there’s a bear 10 metres behind you in the trees’! I didn’t stay around to see! I got in to the Park and was treated to a cycle lane all the way to Jenny Lake….which was just as well as gee, the road was jammed with RVs, cars and caravans. High season here! Jenny Lake was stunning….the whole area is stunningly beautiful with the rugged Tetons forming a majestic backdrop right through the Park. I stopped again at the Lake….i was determined to slow down and also give my sores a break. I grabbed a coke but it was so thronged I had to get away – too many people!

The next part of the ride was on the road but overall it wasn’t too bad with drivers giving you plenty of space. I was treated to some incredible views and loads of wildlife.

I got to the national park camp at Colter Bay around 2:30. This is a state run park which has designated ‘hiker-biker’ camping which was just as well as the campsite was full. There’s a grocery store here which charges obscene prices for basic stuff but I treated myself to a ham sandwich and milk coffee and a fruit bowl – delicious. The rest of the afternoon took on a familiar routine – tent up, bike sorted, wash and cook an evening meal.

I got a call from Chris, the guy I started this mad trip with all those weeks ago. He’d had endless problems with losing things and bike issues but he’s such a determined guy he’s kept going. Now after a week with friends in Wyoming he’d rejoined the Divide and had had crazy puncture issues today and was now stuck in the middle of nowhere with no spare tube and constant punctures. He’d been helped by a passer by but he was stressed – as he said, after the third puncture ‘I cried’. The Divide does that to those who choose to tackle it. But it also throws up kindness and ‘coincidences’ which defy logic but which can be lifesaving, like the guy in the Augustine Plains who rescued me, and like Chris’s ‘trail angel’ today.

Idaho
After a crappy night as my stupid air bed got another puncture I got up and packed away then scooted over to the camp restaurant where they were serving breakfast for $12 . Cereal, fruit, yogurt and muffins. Mysteriously some muffins jumped in to my pannier …..weird 🤣. I started out with a guy called Max from the UK – he’s a strong rider (and much younger!) so it was hard to stay with him but managed it until the gravel when he just sped off – oh to have that ability. The first part of the gravel was actually very good with some extraordinary scenery. It was good to ride at my own pace and stop when and where I wanted to, but I missed the lads. I took a break at a reservoir before things started to go a wee bit pear shaped….in that the gravel turned to sand. Good god that was crazy hard. Bob would just bog down and more times than I could count the front wheel went one way and the rear the other! I really struggled. I had identified a camp ground around 35 miles in but was anxious about bears! I met a lot of south bounders which broke up the monotony of the sand riding. Mid way there was a lodging hut just off the trail which could be rented out. I got around the gate and found two huts and a toilet…and a well pump which eventually spewed lovely water – I was out, so perfect timing. I stayed there for an hour resting in the midday sun and wind. I was buggered. But I knew I wasn’t supposed to be there so decided I’d try for a campground a further 14 miles on. I crossed the border in to Idaho and mile by mile clawed my way to the ranch where I could camp. It was a quirky place with the hostess out of her head on something and her long suffering husband cooking up meals! It was a great little set up, with showers, hot water, a camp kitchen but also serving meals!

I had to do a load of work on Bob as well as try fix my airbed….both I think were achieved 😊. Time then to fill my face with burger and chips before setting up camp. I connected with Michael and shared war stories. He sent me the following message:

Been thinking about all I’ve learned and benefited from riding with you. Top three lessons: 1) weight beats watts, 2) never pick up your bike by the saddle, and 3) pace line like a champ w good manners.

Gee I miss him, and the others, but have built lifelong friendships.

Before the sand…it was lovely!